From the Archives: Skull, Crossbones revive a U.K. footwear legend
Posted on November 8, 2008 - Filed Under The National Post |
This is an older bit I wrote for the National Post that was published on November 18, 2006.
Skull, Crossbones revive a U.K. footwear legend
By Jeff Beer
It would be difficult to imagine two men more suited to take an old English shoe and give it a bit of youthful American kick than brothers Derrick and Kirk Miller.
Derrick, 33, previously worked as a designer at prepster label Ralph Lauren; Kirk, 28, a former pro soccer player, was at Paul Stuart, the Madison Avenue temple of all-America. Slightly over a year ago, the brothers were approached by Barker Black, a venerable British shoemaker founded in 1880, badly in need of an update.
“We had been approached by a few people to do our own line of clothing,” says Derrick, now the creative director of Barker Black. “But we’re both huge anglophiles and the opportunity to re-launch an old English factory, particularly shoes, was too good to pass up.”
So the brothers set up shop in a 200-square-foot former law office in Manhattan’s trendy Nolita district and, over the past two years, have expanded the product line to include such accessories as neckwear, braces and pocket squares. But the shoes – which start at US$650 and soar to US$4,800 for custom editions in crocodile and ostrich – remain the centrepiece.
At first glance, they look like a classic English dress shoe. Look closer though, and you’ll spot a skull and crossbones motif that confers a decidedly more dangerous tinge to the line. The familiar emblem is subtly present on all Barker Black shoes, whether as perforations on the toe or in the form of 139 tacks hand-hammered into the sole.
The skull and bones came about after Derrick went to England to study designs for the brand update and came upon the story of Britain’s 17th Lancers regiment, renowned for its deeds during the Crimean War, They were also known as snappy dressers, called Bingham’s Dandies because their commander, Lord Bingham, insisted they pay heed to the upkeep of their uniforms. The regiments banner was the skull and crossbones. No wimpy fashionistas in the 17th Lancers.
“Our logo is also inspired by jailhouse tattoos,” says Derrick. “But I always come back to the Lancers because I love the feeling and historical value. It’s a lot harder to make something timeless than it is to just plaster a skull & crossbones on everything,” he continues. “Our whole philosophy is that these shoes will last you for 20 years. They should be designed so that you’ll still want to wear them for those 20 years.”
History also remembers the 17th Lancers for their presence at General James Wolfe’s 1759 victory in the Battle of Quebec. So it seems fitting that Barker Black is heading north. It will be in Holt Renfrew stores in Toronto and Vancouver in February. “There’s a whole generation of younger guys who have never owned a suit, or have even worn one. And it’s gotten to the point where people are dressing up again,” says Derrick. “So, we’re trying to give people something that expresses who they are. That’s kind of where we see ourselves in the market. It’s about catering to the fringe of both the fashion-minded side and the guys who care just a little bit.”
The interesting skull and crossbones logo and other subtle but equally edgy embellishments are designed to attract such men. “We’re always trying to keep in mind, timeless and sophisticated, but also with a bit of rebellion,” says Derrick.
They’re goods aren’t inexpensive, but the Millers observe that style need not be synonymous with wealth. Derrick, for instance, says that when he was younger he would buy good clothes second-hand. “But if I spent $25 on a suit from the Salvation Army, I’d spend the $100 to get it tailored because the fit is as important, or more, than the rest of it. It might be hard to give up that $100, but in terms of how you look, it makes all the difference in the world.”
“I’ve seen $200 suits and $2000 suits and if they’re tailored nicely and fit properly, you can’t really tell much of a difference,” says Kirk. “It’s in the little details where people can see you know what you’re doing. Whether you’re wearing bright coloured socks or great shoes, or maybe you’ve got a cool tie or tiepin — it’s all about showing the little nuances that make people take notice.”
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